Journal · 33 guides
Notes from Bali
Our guides to the corners of the island around the villas: dolphins and waterfalls in the north, surf and cafés in Pererenan, temples and wild beaches in Uluwatu.
Where to Stay in Bali: North, Canggu or Uluwatu?
Three very different Balis, three different trips. An honest look at the quiet north, the Canggu coast and the Bukit cliffs, so you can pick the one that fits.
Things to do in Lovina: 12 ideas for a slow week
Dolphins at dawn, waterfalls before lunch, sunsets over a calm black sand bay. Twelve ways to spend a slow week in Lovina, and where to eat.
Pererenan vs Canggu: where to stay on Bali's west coast
Ten minutes apart, two very different moods. Here is how Pererenan and Canggu compare for sleep, surf, food and getting around.
Nyang Nyang Beach: How to Get Down and When to Go
Two kilometres of pale sand below the Pecatu cliffs, a rusting shipwreck and almost nobody around. Here is how to get down, and when it is worth it.
Bali Itinerary 10 Days: From Uluwatu to Lovina
Ten days, three bases, one direction: south to north. A day by day route from the cliffs of Uluwatu to the calm sea of Lovina, with Ubud or Munduk on the way.
Dolphin watching in Lovina: the complete sunrise guide
Out on a wooden jukung before dawn, waiting for the first fins to break the surface. Here is how to do the Lovina dolphins trip well, and kindly.
The best waterfalls near Lovina: Gitgit, Sekumpul, Aling Aling
Three very different falls within an hour of Lovina: the giant curtain of Sekumpul, easy Gitgit, and the jumps and slides of Aling Aling.
Banjar hot springs guide: how to visit North Bali's sulphur pools
Warm green water pouring from carved dragon mouths, frangipani overhead and a coffee afterwards. The easiest half day out from Lovina.
Menjangan snorkeling: a day trip from Lovina to Bali's best reef
Clear water, coral walls dropping into the blue and deer on the beach. How to plan a Menjangan snorkeling day from Lovina.
Munduk day trip from Lovina: twin lakes, waterfalls and Ulun Danu Beratan
Cool air, mist on the crater lakes, clove scented hills and a temple floating on Lake Beratan. A full Munduk day trip from Lovina, planned.
Is Lovina worth visiting? An honest look at North Bali vs the south
Black sand, no beach clubs and three hours from the airport. So why do people fall for the north? An honest comparison with Canggu and Uluwatu.
Surf Pererenan and Echo Beach: spots, levels and lessons
Reef lefts and rights, a beginner wave down the road, and a few rules that keep you friends with the locals.
The best Pererenan restaurants and cafés, from breakfast to dinner
Seven places we actually go back to in Pererenan, from slow breakfasts to long dinners with a good bottle.
Tanah Lot sunset guide: tickets, timing and how to beat the crowds
The sea temple on its rock is Bali's most famous sunset. Here is how to see it well, with fewer people in your photos.
Canggu beach clubs, from chilled sunsets to all day parties
Seven beach clubs between Pererenan and Berawa, sorted from quiet sunset drinks to full volume pool parties.
Rice field walk near Canggu: Pererenan, Tabanan and Jatiluwih
Green paddies still run between the villas. Where to walk them near Pererenan, and when to go further to Jatiluwih.
Yoga in Canggu and Pererenan: the studios worth your mat
Seven studios near Pererenan, from Jivamukti in the village to aerial classes in Seseh and Hatha on Batu Bolong.
Uluwatu Temple and the Kecak Dance: Tickets, Timing and Tips
A clifftop temple, a ring of men chanting and the sun dropping into the Indian Ocean. How to get tickets, when to arrive and where to sit.
Uluwatu Surf Spots: Padang Padang, Bingin, Impossibles and More
The Bukit has some of the best reef breaks in the world. Here is how each one works, which tide it likes, and whether it is right for you.
The Best Beaches in Uluwatu, From Calm Coves to Wild Sand
White sand under limestone cliffs, from easy swimming coves to wild reef beaches. Which Uluwatu beach suits which mood, and how to time the tide.
Digital Nomad Uluwatu: Working Remotely From the Bukit
Uluwatu is quieter than Canggu and closer to the waves. How the wifi really is, where to cowork, and how to build a day around calls and sunsets.
The Best Time to Visit Bali: A Month by Month Guide
Dry season or green season, festivals or quiet weeks. What every month in Bali is really like, with Nyepi and Galungan dates for 2027.
Private Villa vs Hotel in Bali: What Really Changes
Bali is one of the few places where a private pool villa can cost the same as a good hotel. Here is what actually changes day to day, the good and the less good.
Hiring a Private Chef at Your Bali Villa: Menus, Prices, Tips
A Balinese feast at your own table, a seafood barbecue by the pool, breakfast you did not have to cook. Here is how a private chef in a Bali villa works, and roughly what it costs.
Intimate Villa Wedding in Bali: The Complete Checklist
A small ceremony at sunset, dinner by the pool, everyone you love in one house. Here is the practical checklist for an intimate villa wedding in Bali, legal side included.
Hidden Beaches in Uluwatu: The Quiet Coves Near Nyang Nyang
Shipwrecks, sea caves and long empty sand at the bottom of the cliffs. The quiet coves around Nyang Nyang, and how to reach each one without regrets on the climb back.
The Best Sunset Spots in Uluwatu, From Wild Cliffs to Beach Clubs
The Bukit faces the Indian Ocean on two sides, which makes it one of the best places in Bali to watch the sun go down. Where to sit, and when to get there.
The Best Restaurants in Uluwatu, From Labuansait Breakfasts to Late Dinners
One road, a dozen good kitchens. How we eat our way through a day on Jalan Labuansait, from the first flat white to a late glass of wine.
Spas in Uluwatu, Plus Yoga and Gyms for a Long Stay
A massage after the beach, a clifftop spa for the big day, a sunrise yoga deck and a proper gym. How to look after yourself on a long stay on the Bukit.
North Bali temples: two easy day loops from Lovina
Carved pink sandstone, a stone cyclist, a hillside monastery and a sea temple full of monkeys. Two relaxed loops through the north's most interesting shrines.
Pemuteran day trip from Lovina: Biorock, turtles and the quiet bay
Free snorkelling over coral grown on steel frames, baby turtles and a sleepy bay facing Java. Here is how to spend a day in Pemuteran, and when Menjangan is worth it instead.
The best restaurants in Lovina, Kalibukbuk and Singaraja
Seafood warungs on Jl. Mawar, a ten table French bistro, real Italian pizza and a pork dish Singaraja is proud of. Our pick of where to eat on the north coast.
Seseh beach, Cemagi and Mengening: the quiet black sand coast north of Pererenan
Walk ten minutes north of Pererenan and the beach clubs fall away. Black sand, grassy ledges, a temple on a lava rock and a sunset you share with fishermen.